Collar
Fasten the top button and slide two fingers in — that is 2-3 cm of room. Collar sizes run 14-17.5 in (35.5-44.5 cm); a choke or a back gap means the next size.
The measured try-on
Trying on classic fit is not about how a garment feels in the first ten seconds — it is about six measurements you can check in under five minutes. This guide gives each checkpoint a target number, a named failure and a keep-or-return rule for the dress shirt, the jacket, the jeans and the shoes.
This is not a shop, a brand's size chart or a tailoring service — it is a measuring procedure you can run in any fitting room with any label.
Scroll the strip sideways — 6 cards.
Fasten the top button and slide two fingers in — that is 2-3 cm of room. Collar sizes run 14-17.5 in (35.5-44.5 cm); a choke or a back gap means the next size.
Classic fit adds 10-15 cm of ease over your body chest, against 5-8 cm for slim. Buttons that strain or fabric that tents like a sail both fail.
Sleeves run 32-36 in (81-91 cm) and should end at the wrist bone with 1-2 cm of give. Bend your arm: if the cuff swallows your hand, go shorter.
Buttoned, the jacket closes with 2-3 cm of slack and no X-shaped pull. The shoulder seam must sit within 2 cm of the shoulder point — that one is not fixable.
An 18-21 cm leg opening should land in one 1-2 cm break at the shoe. Allow 3-5% shrink on raw denim — up to 10% on unsanforized selvedge — before hemming.
Standing, you need 1-1.5 cm past the longest toe. Feet swell up to 5% by late afternoon, so a fitting before 4 pm proves nothing.
Start here
Every fit verdict in this guide starts from a body measurement taken before the garment goes on.
Collar and sleeve decide the shirt. Collar sizes run 14-17.5 in (35.5-44.5 cm); measure your neck where the collar sits and match it to the chart. Sleeve lengths run 32-36 in (81-91 cm), measured from the centre back of the neck over the shoulder to the wrist bone.
Chest, waist and inseam decide the jacket, the jeans and the trousers. Measure your chest at the fullest point — a classic-fit shirt then adds 10-15 cm (4-6 in) of ease on top of it, against 5-8 cm for a slim fit. Trouser inseams are sold in 1 in (2.5 cm) steps, so know yours to the nearest step.
Foot length decides the shoe, and it changes through the day. Measure both feet standing, take the longer one, and add 1-1.5 cm — that is the internal length the shoe must have. Because feet swell up to 5% in volume by late afternoon, an evening measurement is the safe one.
| Checkpoint | Target measurement | Fail sign |
|---|---|---|
| Shirt collar | 2-3 cm (two fingers) between collar and neck | Choking, or a visible gap at the back |
| Shirt chest ease | 10-15 cm (4-6 in) over body chest | Buttons straining, or fabric tenting |
| Sleeve length | Ends at wrist bone; 1-2 cm cuff past jacket sleeve | Cuff hidden, or covering the hand |
| Jacket closure | 2-3 cm of slack at the button | X-shaped creases radiating from the button |
| Jacket shoulder | Seam within 2 cm of the shoulder point | Seam dropping down the arm |
| Jeans hem | 18-21 cm leg opening, one 1-2 cm break | Pooling folds, or no break at all |
| Shoe toe space | 1-1.5 cm past the longest toe, standing | Longest toe touching the front |
Each frame is one checkpoint: collar, chest, sleeve, jacket, jeans, shoes — in the order you run them.